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Called Le Marche (pronounced ‘lay markay’) by Italians and the ‘Marches’ by the Brits, this region lies on the eastern side of central Italy, between the sparkling blue waters of the Adriatic and the towering Apennine mountains. Despite catering for ‘sun, sea and sand’ holidaymakers for years, much of it remains untouched by modern tourism, and is rarely overcrowded. Few people tend to explore inland, yet there you can find places where time really has stood still. The weather is hot July and August, whilst the more temperate months of May, June and September are ideal for sightseeing, perhaps admiring some Renaissance art and architecture at Urbino, or for trekking across wild uncharted mountains in search of some ‘real’ Italy. Sights not to be missed include the Frasassi limestone caves, and the soaring mountain pass at Furlo Gorge.